The “whirring” noise you associate with printing is caused by the cheap stepper motor drivers used on the stock Ender 3 board. Enter the Creality Silent Mainboard v1. This board directly replaces your existing Ender 3 mainboard , upgrading your printer to the silent TMC stepper motor drivers. This is the biggest “sound” upgrade you can make.

It reduces your printer’s noise from approximately 48dB to 36dB, with the remaining sound coming from the Ender 3’s fans which can also be upgraded to quieter fans. If I had to choose a single upgrade from this guide other than OctoPrint , it would be this one. Combined with the MeanWell PSU upgrade also mentioned in this guide, I often forget my printer is running since it now generates so little noise. Of course, in addition to decreasing noise, this board and its upgraded stepper motor drivers improve the quality of your prints.

OctoPrint is the 1 upgrade for making the overall 3D-printing experience easier and more enjoyable. While this upgrade doesn’t relate directly to print quality, it will save you a ton of time and headaches.

With OctoPrint, you won’t need to load and start prints from an SD card ever again. In a nutshell, OctoPrint is a library that runs on the small Raspberry Pi computer. When you want to print something, you’ll log into a slick interface from your computer.

This interface will allow you to control your printer, start and stop prints, and more. You can even monitor your printer remotely using a small camera!

I wrote a full guide on installing and using OctoPrint on the Ender 3 , as well as a video :. If you’re already using OctoPrint, why not add a nice touchscreen to your Ender 3? Check out my full guide on this, as well as my video :.

For this project, I used the Adafruit 3. There are several reasons to upgrade your Ender 3 to a MeanWell PSU including noise, safety, and even reducing bed-leveling issues. This means a much quieter printer, especially when paired with the silent board upgrade.

This reason alone made the upgrade worth it to me. I work in the same room as my printer, so noise is a huge issue. MeanWell PSUs use higher quality components than the cheap stock unit, providing cleaner power with fewer of the electrical spikes and sags that could pose a safety hazard.

The MeanWell PSU is noticeably thinner than the stock unit, which is handy if you’re using an enclosure and need to relocate it. There are tons of different build plate surfaces out there: metal, magnetic, BuildTak, painter’s tape, and tons more. But after printing for many years on several different printers, I’ve always had the best experience with glass. Glass beds are supremely flat, fixing the all-too-common “warped Ender 3 bed” issue that many of us experience. Glass beds also save on prep time, are easy to clean, and offer effortless print removal with a semi-glossy print finish.

I wrote a comprehensive guide to 3D printing on a glass bed if you’d like to dive into the details. This xmm glass bed is the one I recommend for the Ender 3. Proper print illumination allows you to identify issues with your prints early—it’s also nice to be able to see what’s happening clearly.

There are tons of methods for adding an LED strip to your 3D printer. I prefer one that places the light source as high as possible in order to illuminate the entire print bed, not just the current print area. I wrote a comprehensive guide on adding an LED strip to your 3D printer , featuring the Ender 3 specifically.

Using the method outlined there, you can even power your LED strip directly from your Ender 3 by regulating the voltage using this buck converter in conjunction with this XT60 splitter cable. Check out that guide for step-by-step instructions on what to print and how to wire everything up!

Your bed springs might seem like an insignificant part of your 3D printer, but they’re actually quite important to bed leveling and stability. The stock Ender 3 bed springs are terrible and can lead to print issues and frequent bed leveling. These issues are largely caused by:. In fact, if you compare the stock and upgraded springs side by side, you can see only the upgraded ones feature a flat surface on the top and bottom.

This leads to less shifting compared to the stock springs. Upgraded Ender 3 springs take minutes to install and mean less frequent bed leveling between prints. The plastic metal feeder assembly on the Ender 3 leaves something to be desired, and improper tension can even cause feeder gear skips, leaving gaps in the layers of your print.

Installing an all-metal feeder assembly such as this one will add durability and stability to your printer. Yet another noise mod—adding these dampers to your X- and Y-axis stepper motors decreases the noise they generate by dB. This is a simple, inexpensive mod with a measurable noise reduction impact. Most Ender 3s ship with an outdated version of the Marlin firmware, which lacks mandatory safety features such as thermal runaway protection.

Thermal runaway is a condition where a failure in the thermocouple temperature sensor can cause your extruder to continue heating, forever, until your extruder block melts and a fire occurs. Thankfully, newer versions of Marlin have thermal runaway protection, a software-level safeguard that polls periodically for an increase in temperature and shuts things down if something isn’t right.

I wrote an in-depth guide to updating your Ender 3 firmware that you can follow to perform this mod. You’ll need any kind of Arduino to perform the firmware update, such as this inexpensive Arduino clone. This is a safety upgrade that you shouldn’t skip.

Did I miss a mod or upgrade that you think is a must-have? Let me know in the comments section below! The process is the same for both the 1. Also visible in this photo are my Raspberry Pi enclosure and camera for use with OctoPrint. Board fan guard Before you print anything else, print this mod. You can install a damper on each stepper motor, which ultimately helps to reduce the vibration and noise of the rumbled Creality Ender 3 3D printer.

This special tubing is up to one meter long and is enhanced with a proprietary high performance additive blend. Out of the box, the Creality Ender 3 3D printer is an excellent 3D printer, considering the low price. However, this does not mean that there is no room for improvement. You can generate various Creality Ender 3 3D printer upgrades and modifications on your 3D printer. Here are some of the best 3D accessory models that will improve the look and functionality of your Creality Ender 3 3D printer.

The module includes an extruder that requires a small number of different screws. This is not the simplest print on our list, but it is worth it if you want to enhance the airflow from the extruder to the print. Its design is also suitable for BLTouch automatic leveling. This upgrade design can be snapped directly onto the rear cable, so no screws are required. Most importantly, this upgraded version of the Creality Ender-3 3D printer is printable and adds a touch of talent to your stretch 3D printer.

In addition, the panel fan draws in air from directly below the heated bed. That’s why the designer created a plate fan shroud that protects the necessary parts from debris and helps to draw in air from the front rather than the bottom of the bed. Note: This upgrade is not compatible with the Ender 3 Pro because the fan on the Ender-3 Pro is located below the base. This simple 3D printing solution is designed to capture directly into the frame. This Creality Ender-3 3D printer upgrade will keep your supplies safe from printing and ensure the process is as smooth as possible.

The board is located directly below the display and is fully open with no housing. Fortunately, this upgraded version of the Creality Ender-3 3D printer is the back cover of the LCD PCB that protects the electronics from any external damage or danger. You can 3D print your own circular vents to ensure that the fan’s air reaches your object from all angles, improving print quality.

That’s why we recommend printing this belt tensioner on the X and Y axes of the Creality Ender3 3D printer. This design has been remixed and modified to accommodate Ender 3. You will also need some 5 x 25 mm bolts and nuts to install the belt tensioner. This is a fast 3D printing that does not require support.

Note: This upgrade is not compatible with Ender-3 Pro. According to Thingiverse’s comments on this design, Z-axis motor shims help prevent shaft binding and smoother Z-axis motion.

You can 3D print this pressure joint repair to make sure everything is in the right place. This simple print design is used to clamp the pressure fittings of the pipe to enhance the connection. Designers share three different sizes, so you can print all the sizes and find the one that works best for your printer. It is a 3D printed bed handle that fits under the print platform and allows the user to move the heated bed without any thermal damage.

To install it, you need to unscrew the leveling knob and place the handle between the knob and the bed. Most importantly, you can get ideas through color and give your Ender-3 a bit of personality. Note that you must print this model horizontally using the support structure. Another small design flaw is solved that prevents the printer’s cable from getting stuck in the print bed. This is a small, simple print, but it has a long way to go to prevent any potential problems with cable damage in the print bed area.

The use of a powerful spring makes it difficult to hold while loading or unloading the filament, and the extended extruder arm makes this process more affordable.

That’s why we added this Corey Ender-3 3D printer upgrade to our list. By attaching this 3D printed extruder arm extension to your machine, you can gain more leverage when opening your arm. No need to break free of sweat when printing 3D! Perhaps this is done to keep it good and clean, but it also limits the movement and accessibility of the filament tube. Therefore, the designer created a bracket that allows you to take the wiring out of the Bowden tube and provide more freedom between the lead frame and the hot end.

You can even choose to install LED lights on the railings. The designer created several versions of the tool shelf, one of which was embedded with the Coreyity logo on the front. With this Corey Ender 3 3D printer upgrade, you can store your wire cutters, wrenches, nozzle cleaners, glue sticks, etc.

Fortunately, a Thingiverse user designed an easy-to-use Beeper Silencer that you can connect to the printer to reduce the volume to an acceptable level. This model can be printed in about 10 minutes and can be directly attached to the back of the LCD panel.

 
 

 

自動車部品工場-溶解炉表面に浮いた不純物を取り除く作業中、転落死: 災害事例 – Related ender 3 control knob STL files

 
A very simple, but I think essential mod for my Ender 3 (or most Creality) 3D printers.. It’s just a knob that fits on the end of the extruder feed motor shaft.. Makes feeding the filament a breeze, and manually priming the extruder is soo easy.. Print at % infill, I used Pet-G.. Needs a 3mm x 5mm long grub screw, and the little hole tapping for the screw.. Pop it on the shaft, tighten the. ender 3 model STL Files for 3D Printers. ender 3 model. STL Files for 3D Printers. STLBase is a Search Engine for 3D printable Models and STL Files. Click on images to download ender 3 model STL files for your 3D Printer. g: feeder knob. Ender 3 $ with code GENDER3 3 Pro $ with code GBEnder3Pro U20 $ with code AlfawiseU20GB2 ht.

 
 

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最近更新が止まったのが残念です） PsyBlog 　（イギリスの素敵な心理学サイト。世界最高のサイトだと思ってます）. あなたはある試験を受け、見事に高得点を取りました。 高得点が取れた一番の理由は次の４つのうちどれだと考えますか？ １．試験の日までコツコツと勉強してきたから ２．試験問題が簡単だったから ３．たまたまヤマがあたったから ４．もともと私は頭がいいから（センスがあるから） Q2.

あなたはある試験を受けましたが、残念ながら得点はよくありませんでした。 得点が低かった一番の理由は次の４つのどれだと思いますか？ １．あまり試験勉強をしなかったから。 ２．試験問題が難しかったから。 ３．周りが騒々しくて集中できなかったから ４．私はもともと頭がよくないから。もしくはこの科目に向いていないから（例えば理系じゃないので数学が苦手だから） これについてどう考えればいいのでしょうか？ まず、ワイナー（Bernard Weiner）の原因帰属の４つのパターンについて説明しましょう。 内的要因、外的要因というのは、原因が自分の中にあるか、自分の外（環境要因）にあると考えるか です。そして、 安定、不安定というのは、都度変わらないものと、都度変わっていくもの の２つです。 それぞれの説明はあまりいらないかもしれませんが 安定・内的・・・自分の能力や向き・不向きなど、すぐには変えられない自分に起因するもの。 不安定・内的・・・努力、練習、その時の体調など、都度都度変化する、自分に起因するもの 安定・外的・・・問題の難しさや、強敵の多い大規模な大会など、自分の問題ではなく、またそれほど変わらないもの。 不安定・外的・・・運や状況（雨が降ったとか、試合開始が遅くなったとか）など、自分の問題でなく、毎回変わるようなもの。 です。 ちなみに、やる気が高い人は、成功した時には下のように考えます。 つまり、Q1の選択では、 １．試験の日までコツコツと勉強してきたから ４．もともと私は頭がいいから（センスがあるから） ですね。 また、やる気の高い人は失敗時に以下のように考えます。 つまり、Q2の選択では １．あまり試験勉強をしなかったから。 ですね。 donload やる気のある人というのは、基本的には全て「自分のこと」として考えるため、ある課題が出来た場合には、「自分だから」出来たということで自信にもつながり、次の課題へ進みやすく なるということです。 また、 失敗した際にも、外部のせいや「能力がない」というような変えられないものでなく、「努力」を要因として考えるので、「今回、失敗したのは、努力が足りなかったからだ」と次回に向けて努力する ことが分かります。 つまり、やる気のある人は努力の人 なんです。 ただし、最近は何でもかんでも自分のせいにしてしまうと、燃え尽きてしまったり、抑うつ状態になりやすいということも言われています。たしかに、うつ傾向の人は、様々なことを「自分のせい」と考えますよね。そこで、 最近は楽観主義者の考え方が注目されています。 では、楽観主義者は失敗時にどのように考えるのでしょうか？それを下にまとめました。 つまり、Q2の選択では、 ２．試験問題が難しかったから。 ３．周りが騒々しくて集中できなかったから ですね。 なんでも楽観主義だと、努力につながらないとも考えられますが、一方で、努力でコントロールできることとできないことがあるのも確か feedeg posted by さいころ at Comment TrackBack 0 モチベーション・効率アップ.

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