They’re making lots of wonderful ideas and materials available to help both kids and adults find meditations that can improve life in many ways. I’ve already published. Save Accept All.

Spring Worksheets for Kids. Check out collection of printable spring worksheets for kids. We created these high quality spring worksheets for you to use for free and hope you have fun using them and learning with your kids during the spring season. Younger kids will enjoy the tracing lines worksheets , spring counting practice and.

The Story of Joseph for Kids. This Bible lesson about the story of Joseph and his jealous brothers is designed for elementary students who read, write, and create original sentences with little adult supervision. This lesson plan takes about 45 minutes to complete and requires a minimal amount of pre-class preparation. Because of this, we’ve got hundreds of printable activities and worksheets for children grades PreK, including sample curriculum, coloring pages, games, printable worksheets , puzzles, parenting worksheets , etc.

Homeschool printables are perfect for reaching each child’s learning style without buying a lot of homeschool curriculum. Here is another word scramble worksheet for students in the elementary to the middle school level. It does happen to be weaker in the vertical direction for strength but is great for faster printing.

However, at a higher Infill Density, the level of strength does drop since the flow gets interrupted due to intersections. One of the best qualities of this Infill Pattern is that it has equal strength in every horizontal direction, but it does require more top layers for an even top surface since the top lines have relatively long bridges.

The Cubic pattern is a great structure that creates cubes and is a 3-dimensional pattern. They generally have equal strength in all directions and have a good amount of strength overall. You can get pretty good top layers with this pattern, which is great for quality.

You can use this pattern when printing flexible models to create fairly strong prints. The Gyroid pattern forms wave-like shapes throughout the Infill of your model and is highly recommended when printing flexible objects. Another great use for the Gyroid pattern is with water-soluble support materials. Wall settings or Wall Thickness is simply how thick the outer layers of a 3D printed object will be in millimeters.

Wall settings are one of the most crucial factors for how strong your prints will be, even more so then infill in many cases.

The best wall settings for 3D printing is to have a Wall Thickness of at least 1. Wall Thickness is rounded up or down to the nearest multiple of the Wall Line Width. Using a higher Wall Thickness will improve the strength of your 3D prints significantly. With the Wall Line Width, it is known that slightly reducing it to below your nozzle diameter can benefit the strength of your 3D prints.

Although you will be printing thinner lines on the wall, there is an overlapping aspect with adjacent wall lines which pushes aside the other walls to the optimal location.

It has an effect of making the walls fuse together better, leading to more strength in your prints. Another benefit of reducing your Wall Line Width is allowing your nozzle to produce more accurate details, especially on the outer walls. There are many initial layer settings that are adjusted specifically to improve your first layers, which are the foundation of your model. For the most part, your initial layer settings should be done to a pretty good standard by just using the default settings in your slicer, but you can definitely make some adjustments to slightly improve your success rate when it comes to 3D printing.

The first thing you want to do before even getting the best initial layer settings is to make sure you have a nice flat bed and it is leveled correctly. Remember to always level your bed when it is hot because beds tend to warp when heated. The Initial Layer Height setting is simply the Layer Height your printer uses for the very first layer of your print.

Cura defaults this to 0. For a standard 0. You may have to adjust your Z-offset accordingly, to account for the increase in material extruded. It can be a good move for beginners to use these larger Initial Layer Heights to get great adhesion. Another benefit of doing this is assisting in reducing the presence of any defects that you may have on your build plate such as indents or marks, so it can actually improve the quality of the bottom of your prints.

A high Initial Layer Width value helps compensate for any bumps and pits on the print bed and provides you a solid initial layer.

These numbers have seemed to work great for people. A high temperature for the first layer makes the material stick to the build platform much better. Speed has a relation with temperature in 3D printing. You can actually change the bottom layer pattern to create a lovely looking bottom surface on your models.

The picture below from Reddit shows the Concentric infill pattern on an Ender 3 and a glass bed. Switched my initial layer pattern from zig zag to concentric. Ender 3 Pro, glass bed, textured side, sliced in Cura. Discover how and when these 3D printing problems occur, and the steps you can take to avoid them in future. This can also result in horizontal cracks in upper parts. As the ABS or PLA filament cools it starts to contract very slightly; the problem of warping arises if the plastic is cooled too quickly.

The first layer does not stick properly, and some parts come loose. There are unwanted lines at the bottom. If the nozzle is too close, blobs may be the result. Also important: the print bed has to be as clean as possible. Fingerprints on the plate can prevent the first layer from sticking to the plate.

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Show details Hide details. Choose items to buy together. Get it as soon as Tuesday, Aug Customers also search Previous page. Next page. From the manufacturer. MP Select Mini 3D Printer V2 Too often, getting a low-cost 3D printer means getting a box of ill-fitted parts with poorly written and incomplete documentation. Open Source The heated build plate and wide range of extruder temperatures allow this printer to work with any type of filament from any manufacturer.

Improved version An improved version of the 3D printer in the world. Ready to Print Unlike most other low-cost 3D printers, this printer ships fully assembled and has already been calibrated at the factory.

What’s in the box 1x 3D Printer. User Manual PDF. Customer reviews. How customer reviews and ratings work Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them. Learn more how customers reviews work on Amazon. Images in this review. Reviews with images. See all customer images.

Top reviews Most recent Top reviews. Top reviews from the United States. There was a problem filtering reviews right now. Please try again later. I just received this printer and so far it’s amazing! However I’ve noticed some people on youtube or Verified Purchase. Ok I just received this printer and so far it’s amazing! However I’ve noticed some people on youtube or other places that shows them having a bit of trouble setting it up so if you’re planning on getting this printer use the following steps to have an awesome experience.

Order a spool of Hatchbox 1. The sample PLA included isn’t enough for anything 1. The VERY first thing you do is use an X-acto knife to cut away the corners of masking tape covering the bed screws!

Plug in the power supply and turn it on 5. The nozzle won’t dig it’s way into the print bed because what?

 
 

Ultimaker 3E feeder problem – Ultimaker 3D printers – Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

 

Small strands of plastic are seen on 3D prints at places where they should not be seen. These unwanted strands of plastic are called strings. And the prints which have them are called stringy 3D prints. Stringing is something that can be material dependent, but here in this article, we describe some general things you could do when dealing with strings. Something we also do in this article is that we list down factors on which stringing is dependent.

And how by increasing or decreasing the factors, the stringing can increase and decrease. We will also tell you, how, these factors are related to other scenarios like stringing and by increasing and decreasing them, what effect is this going to have on those scenarios. Credit: twimg. For explaining the scenario we are taking an example of an FDM 3D printer. When the nozzle is traveling across an open space to get to the next point, it may sometimes ooze melted plastic of the filament.

This oozed out melted plastic of the filament then solidifies and sticks to the printed parts forming lines of plastic-like strings connecting one part to the other.

These plastic-like lines are known as a 3D printer stringing, and it leaves your 3D printed parts with thin strands of plastic that resemble cobwebs or strands of hair. This is something that is only observed in practice, so if you read theories about 3D printing, this does not exist anywhere. In theory, the nozzle of your printer nozzle should not deposit plastic as it travels through open air.

One of the most obvious causes of stringing in FDM printers are using incorrect retraction settings and setting the hot end temperature too high. However, it depends on the filament to the filament.

For example, when you are using PETG the required temperature would be relatively high for melting and is notorious for stringing. As discussed in the introduction there are some factors that influence stringing. And by increasing and decreasing these factors you can increase or decrease the stringing. Credit: ultimaker. This is the time when you use retraction. Retraction is a setting that can be found in a slicer named Cura and fortunately it is in the default settings of this software.

If you doubt about the retraction setting is on, you can always check it before starting to print. Another place where you should also be able to see this setting is in the Layers view that slicer Cura offers. It will be visible in small dark blue vertical lines that represent the retractions in the print. In such scenarios, you can always alter some other parameters from the ones mentioned below to balance the complete case. Credit: all3dp. Temperature is one of the most important parameters for reducing the number of strings.

Remember, it is observed that a high temperature means that the material will be more liquid. This in turn means that there are more chances that while the travel is happening, the liquid is dropped on the print head even if you are using retraction.

In this case, by using a lower temperature the material is less liquid and thus less likely to string. To avoid stringy 3D prints, keep the temperature as low as possible.

Although it is not possible for us to mention one temperature that will work for all the materials because different materials have different melting points.

So, check out various types of print settings that are mentioned for various types of materials and the color of the material that you are using. If you are someone who always notices stringing on your print, we would recommend lowering the temperature in steps of approximately 10 degrees.

This is to find out what the best setting for your material is, it is a kind of experiment. And it is not true to say that prints of some materials are only available at some temperatures, for example, we figured out that for some prints in PLA we were even able to lower the temperature to degrees.

Lowering the temperature is one thing, and lowering print speed is the other. If you have understood the stringing phenomenon as a whole, it might not be hard for you to guess that speed also plays the role. The print head of the printer travels at a specific speed from one end of the layer to the other end. And it is this speed that we need to control the stringing. Furthermore, it could help to increase travel speed.

This way the print head will travel a bit faster so that the material has less time to drip from the nozzle while traveling. Every 3D printing filament is prone to moisture pickup whenever they are exposed to open air. Now, this moisture can be present in microscopic bubbles inside the filament and that can expand. This expansion can lead to bursting of filament when the filament is subjected to the temperatures of a hot end nozzle.

Although the most common result of using a high-moisture filament is a pockmarked print, these moisture bubbles can also increase the chances of stringing. Generally, a bubble of moisture can expand and also burst inside the hot end nozzle.

Here the point to note is that as the bubble expands, it exerts pressure in all directions. The portion of molten filament that is barely hanging on to the nozzle is also included here. This pressure may be enough to cause the molten filament to flow out the nozzle, creating the stringing effect. For avoiding stringing and hosting other problems associated with moisture in filaments, the best choice is to store them in airtight containers with a few packets of desiccant.

The other possibility is to dry filaments in an oven or inside a food dehydrator. All you need to ensure is that you use an oven that can hold a set temperature, as the last thing you would want is to overheat your filament and fuse them together. Once you have done the printing and hours have passed, the filament material will tend to leave a thin residue on the inner surface of your nozzle and this is the case with all the filaments.

Continuous printing using a nozzle that has such a layer of residue can reduce the ability of your new filament to hold on to the nozzle and this can result in stringing. Stringy 3D prints are an outcome of the molten filament freely flowing out of the nozzle. Even if this might not be the scenario every time, but it is the scenario most of the time and this increases the chances of stringing.

For avoiding this problem completely happen, we recommend cleaning your nozzle after every printing session that lasts several hours or days. And if you think that cleaning can only be done in one way, you are wrong because there are several ways to do this. However, we will tell you the easiest one i. You can also use a piece of filament to do the cold pull method or disassemble your nozzle and soak it in acetone. Cleaning of the nozzle ensures that you are taking the utmost care for the stringing to not happen.

Stringy 3D prints depend on other factors too. As you can see, some of them are mentioned above too. Credit: gr5. After getting so many things all right, you should at least check your printer settings and ensure they are correct. And this goes before starting to print every design that you are willing to 3D print. After all, doing trial and error on full designs can not only waste a lot of filament but is also time-consuming.

Luckily, now you also have websites from which you can download design for retraction cubes. Designs on these websites simply consist of several identical cubes separated by gaps of varying sizes.

Such designs are a good torture test for determining if you have the most optimal settings for your printer or not. This involves checking printing temperature, retraction, and printhead travel speed which are the most important ones when it comes to ensuring how to not get stringy 3D prints?

Because the retraction cubes in these designs are generally very small, the whole design can be printed in just a few minutes and uses up a very small amount of filament. This enables you to know within minutes of your time whether you are going to get a print without strings or not. So, you can correct the other parameter, which is wrong, because of which you are getting the stringy 3D prints.

And the other thing that we would like to tell you is, there is no single combination of 3D printer settings that will work across different filaments, designs, and environments. There are many problems related to 3D printing just as stringing. Addressing them is an as multi-pronged approach, as much as approaching stringing is.

The condition of your filament and nozzle are the two main factors that can cause stringing, and so we recommend you address them first. Only after addressing them, you can play around with printer settings, with temperature and retraction taking the spotlight.

As long as you understand the complete process of 3D printing, stringing should be one of the easiest problems to solve.

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Feeding Problems – Ultimaker 3D printers – Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

 

An increase in Flow rate is usually for a short-term fix like a clogged nozzle, as well as under or over extrusion. Flow or Flow Compensation in Cura is depicted by a percentage and is the actual amount of filament that is extruded from the nozzle. The main reason one would adjust the flow rate is to make up for an issue in the extrusion train. An example here would be a clogged nozzle. The video below shows a fairly simple way to calibrate your Flow Rate, which consists of 3D printing a simple open cube and measuring the walls with a pair of Digital Calipers.

Under Shell settings in Cura, you should set a Wall Thickness of 0. Another thing you can do you calibrate your Flow is to print a Flow Test tower in Cura. All things considered, Flow is more of a temporary fix to print problems rather than a permanent one.

The best Infill Settings are based on your use case. Infill Density is simply how much material and volume is inside of your prints. The higher your infill Density, the stronger your 3D prints will be, though it brings diminishing returns in strength the higher the percentage used.

You can save plenty of material by using the optimal amount of infill, as well as decrease printing time. As you can see, the Gyroid infill pattern looks denser than the Cubic pattern. When you think of your infill, it is technically a supporting structure for layers above. If your Infill Density creates many gaps in the model when you see the preview of the model, you can get print failures, so make sure your model is well-supported from the inside if needed.

The best Infill Pattern for strength is the Cubic or Triangle Infill Pattern since they provide great strength in multiple directions. For quicker 3D prints, the best Infill Pattern would be Lines. Flexible 3D prints can benefit from using the Gyroid Infill Pattern. Infill Patterns are a way to define the structure which fills up your 3D printed objects. There are specific use cases for different patterns out there, whether for flexibility, strength, speed, a smooth top surface, and so on.

The default Infill Pattern in Cura is the Cubic pattern which is a great balance of strength, speed, and overall print quality. It is considered the best infill pattern by many 3D printer users. Grid produces two sets of lines that are perpendicular to each other. Being one of the best Infill Patterns, Lines forms parallel lines and creates a decent top surface finish with satisfactory strength. You can use this Infill Pattern for an all-rounder use case. It does happen to be weaker in the vertical direction for strength but is great for faster printing.

However, at a higher Infill Density, the level of strength does drop since the flow gets interrupted due to intersections. One of the best qualities of this Infill Pattern is that it has equal strength in every horizontal direction, but it does require more top layers for an even top surface since the top lines have relatively long bridges. The Cubic pattern is a great structure that creates cubes and is a 3-dimensional pattern. They generally have equal strength in all directions and have a good amount of strength overall.

You can get pretty good top layers with this pattern, which is great for quality. You can use this pattern when printing flexible models to create fairly strong prints. The Gyroid pattern forms wave-like shapes throughout the Infill of your model and is highly recommended when printing flexible objects. Another great use for the Gyroid pattern is with water-soluble support materials. Wall settings or Wall Thickness is simply how thick the outer layers of a 3D printed object will be in millimeters.

Wall settings are one of the most crucial factors for how strong your prints will be, even more so then infill in many cases. The best wall settings for 3D printing is to have a Wall Thickness of at least 1.

Wall Thickness is rounded up or down to the nearest multiple of the Wall Line Width. Using a higher Wall Thickness will improve the strength of your 3D prints significantly. With the Wall Line Width, it is known that slightly reducing it to below your nozzle diameter can benefit the strength of your 3D prints. Although you will be printing thinner lines on the wall, there is an overlapping aspect with adjacent wall lines which pushes aside the other walls to the optimal location.

It has an effect of making the walls fuse together better, leading to more strength in your prints. Another benefit of reducing your Wall Line Width is allowing your nozzle to produce more accurate details, especially on the outer walls. There are many initial layer settings that are adjusted specifically to improve your first layers, which are the foundation of your model.

For the most part, your initial layer settings should be done to a pretty good standard by just using the default settings in your slicer, but you can definitely make some adjustments to slightly improve your success rate when it comes to 3D printing.

The first thing you want to do before even getting the best initial layer settings is to make sure you have a nice flat bed and it is leveled correctly. Remember to always level your bed when it is hot because beds tend to warp when heated.

The Initial Layer Height setting is simply the Layer Height your printer uses for the very first layer of your print. Cura defaults this to 0. Plus, it works smartly. This dual extruder 3D printer has a filament detection system that will alert you to change filaments when the printer runs in the air or the spool is empty. It has a resurrection system that saves real-time printing status and resumes the 3D printing job exactly where it stops in case of a power outage or printing failure.

Geeetech recommends Repetier-Host for slicing models, but it also provides Color Mixer software for importing Gcode to add gradients, color steps or mix filament colors. For your peace of mind, it comes with lifetime technical assistance in case you encounter any problem while setting it up or using it. It also has responsive and knowledgeable customer support that you can contact via email and on Facebook. You might need to do a lot of fine-tuning to get great prints which also gives you the opportunity to familiarize your machine more.

Geeetech is another go-to brand for dual extrusion 3D printers. It has a sturdy metal frame with aviation level aluminum plate and a completely flat surface that will not warp during the heating process.

It has an enclosed chamber design for protection. You can unleash your creativity because you can use different materials for your 3D project. However, the spool holders are too big for most filaments, but you can replace it by 3D printing another one. In general Flashforge Creator Pro is easy to use from setting it up to making your first 3D print.

The challenging part is locating the voltage switch that is extremely awkward to get to. If you do not have any experience, you will probably have a hard time setting this up and making it work.

It also delivers decent quality and consistent prints. Overall, Flashforge Creator Pro is an affordable, efficient and reliable dual extruder 3D printer. It delivers consistent results and is relatively easy to maintain and repair. Plus, it has an active and supportive community which you can turn to whenever you need help or answers to even your basic questions. Furthermore, Creator Pro is open source, so you are free to upgrade it and improve it to work the way you want your machine to operate.

Due to the said reasons, I consider Creator Pro the best dual extruder 3D printer. The brand is among the most popular and trusted 3D printer manufacturers in the market. Since it is for professionals, it costs more than regular dual extruder 3D printers. The good thing with it is that it can handle a huge variety of material, has a huge build volume, impressive software and produces big prints.

So, if you are planning to make money from your 3D printing machine, this dual extruder printer is a good option. It comes with two swappable print heads.

You can easily remove them by selecting an on-screen menu option and then pressing a retaining clamp. Doing so will allow you to use printheads for different materials at once. Ultimaker S5 also includes the Cura app, the software that slices the model and creates the final print file. You can monitor prints via Cura with the Ultimaker app on your phone for both iOS and Android devices because it has a built-in webcam. The app also allows you to stop, pause, cancel or start a new print.

Overall, Ultimaker S5 is the best dual 3D printer for professionals. It is expensive but exceeds most of your expectations. But it makes it into our list of best dual extruder 3D printers because it is an exceptional 3D printer with dual extrusion. The dual extruder has two feeders, two inlets, and a single nozzle.

This can also result in horizontal cracks in upper parts. As the ABS or PLA filament cools it starts to contract very slightly; the problem of warping arises if the plastic is cooled too quickly.

The first layer does not stick properly, and some parts come loose. There are unwanted lines at the bottom. If the nozzle is too close, blobs may be the result. Also important: the print bed has to be as clean as possible. Fingerprints on the plate can prevent the first layer from sticking to the plate. One of the rods in the Z axis is not perfectly straight.

The printer failed to provide the amount of plastic required for printing the skipped layers. This is called temporary under-extrusion.

 
 

Feeding Problems – Ultimaker 3D printers – Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

 
 
Issue: Axial fan (the front fan) was blocked by debris, thus the feed in the printhead would overheat and the material would get to soft. I have ultimaker 2+ & facing the problem of material grinding..i have tried fixing the tension in higher, lower & middle but didn’t helped.